Salar de Uyuni: Day 3

Hiking a rocky path at 5am, we couldn't believe we were amongst thousand year old cacti. We were on our way to the sunrise over Salar de Uyuni, the largest salt flat in the world of about 10,582 square kilometres and at an altitude of 3,656m. This was the pinnacle of our trip. The Isla Incahuasi, or Cactus Island (not the correct translation, it actually translates as Inca's house), is the top of remains of an ancient volcano which was submerged under the gigantic prehistoric Lake Michin that dried up and is now mostly the Salar de Uyuni. Hard to believe we sat on a fossil containing rock watching the sun rise a perfect circular ball above the mountains, across a 40,000 year old dried up lake. 

After a delicious breakfast, ate in the sun on a salt table, and a quick tour of the small museum found on the island, we headed out in the jeep. We found a great spot to indulge our creative minds with some cool photos. You see, the Salar de Uyuni has an extraordinary flatness with altitude variations of only one meter across its whole area. This means that your depth of distance and view of the horizon is altered, making for some mesmerising, interesting and obviously some funny photos.

The entire experience was incredible and unforgettable. Driving across the Salar, mesmerised by the views, we knew we had reached a moment in our lives that would be hard to top. And sadly, reaching Uyuni, we knew our trip was about to end. 

Our last stop was at the Train Cemetery in Uyuni. Built by British engineers in the late 19th century, the trains were mainly used by mining companies to carry minerals to Pacific Ocean ports. But the mining industry collapsed due to a mineral depletion in the 1940's, which led trains to be abandoned. Now it's a place for artsy photos, adventures for kids (and Matt), and an end to a tour. 

Veredict: so worth it. 

Highest altitude: 5000m

Best landscape: Salt flats

Second best (just because): Lagoon with flamingos 

Cost: $100 each

In much need of a shower and clean clothes, what's next? We're travelling the length of Bolivia, crossing into Peru via Lake Titicaca. All in 10 days. 

Salar de Uyuni: Day 2

I woke up with a bit of altitude sickness. My eyes felt like they were trying to melt their way out of my body, my head pounded as if it had stopped breathing. Altitude sickness means your blood is not oxygenating properly, aka. there is not enough O2 circulating your body, and thus your organs struggle to function properly, particularly your brain. This happens because at high altitude there is a lower supply of oxygen in the air. We slept at 2,900m. Mild symptoms: headaches, nausea, dizziness, lack of appetite. All me. Severe symptoms: coughing up weird coloured liquids, breathlessness, confusion or loss of consciousness. Not me. Remedy: walk slowly or sit down, go down to lower altitude if experiencing severe symptoms, remove layers of clothing to allow your blood to flow unconstricted, sip on water at regular intervals and check you're peeing regularly too. This is a good sign your body is adapting to the altitude. Medical lesson complete. Now onto day two. 

First stop:

Red Lagoon (Laguna Colorada) 

The morning air was crisp, the skies warmed with a pink hue and the soil moist with hints of snow. We were one of the few tour groups at the lagoon at this early time. There was a peace in the air, one I had never felt before. It was as if I was alone enveloped in this beautiful landscape. The water was still. It reflected the curves of the surrounding mountains and the silhouettes of the birds and flamingoes. By far, one of my favourite landscapes.

We then drove to the highland lagoons of Bolivia: Lagoon Honda, Chearcota, Hedionda, Canapa, and drove through the Dali Rock Desert, aka Desierto de Siloli (Arbor de Piedra).

Lunch break

At a reasonable hour, Fran plated up a selection of vegetables, rice, potatoes, tuna and sausage to have while we soaked up the view of the lagoons amongst the beautiful rocks. It was windy but warm. In the far distance, we eyed up some vicunas, a smaller wild version of the llamas, and a volcano. 

Third stop
I won't bore you with the details of a lack of a toilet. Let's just say, men have it easier. Thank god for the rocks. As we headed off, we realised we could connect Alex's phone to the jeep and played her one and only playlist: a combination of sad and foreign songs, intervalled with some reggaeton and the odd last year summer tune. Perfect for a road trip. We stopped at the Chiguana Salt Flat where there is a trainline, a favourite for tourist selfies which made it hard for Matt to take his iconic railway shot. Nonetheless, we achieved the following:

And lastly, the Salt Hotel: Puerto Chubica. Yes, we slept in a hotel made out of salt. Walls, bed (under the mattress), floor, tables, chair like stools. Despite it being such an incredible experience in theory, when looking for a tour company we were looking for other sleep alternatives. It's important to be aware that building a Salt Hotel affects the local environment, often because of its waste management and of the extraction procedures of the salt found in the surrounding landscape, i.e. the Salar de Uyuni, a UNESCO world Heritage Site. However, unable to find an alternative, we just hoped to minimise any waste impact the two of us could have.

Our evening was entertained with music, good conversations and a meat-lover dish. So much for vegetarian catering. Early to bed = early to rise. We were excited to wake up early on our last day. We were going to see the sunrise and explore the salt flats.

Salar de Uyuni: Day 1

It was 7:45am. We waited outside for the tour company bus to pick us up. He told us to be prompt, so there we were, 15 minutes earlier mesmerised by the stunning mountain backdrop that woke up the skies with a peaceful beauty. We waited for 45 minutes, there is no such thing as being prompt in South America. Matt kept trodding back and forth, he forgot to put on his base layer, thought an extra pair of socks might be better and searched for his gloves in his bag to only realise he left them at home. Not to worry, he had his fingerless ones, which are better for using his camera anyway. The thing is, we were heading to Bolivia, on a four by four 3 day tour. We were instructed to take a day pack with our essentials for the day and would only get our backpack in the evening. We hopped on the bus, greeted by 20 or so fellow travellers. We were clearly the last to be picked up, cannot complain after trying to imprint a mental image of that beautiful mountain in my brain.

First stop: Chilean border control 

The queue to get exit stamps for Chile took an hour. 

We got handed paper bags that contained our much-needed breakfast. 'Vegetarian?', our tour leader shouted. I raised my hand, the bag got passed down. "You see, you can trust me. I not forget you vegetarian!". Everyone got the same sandwich: smeared with a thick layer of dulce de leite. 

Second stop: Bolivian border control

The queue to get entry stamps for Bolivia took thirty minutes-ish. 

The toilets stank. It was a hole in the ground that required some ash throwing to help nourish the soil. 

We loaded our designated jeep with our backpacks and six-litre water bottles on top, covered in a rain and sand protector. We met our fellow travellers and our guide. Meet Alex, Fran (our guide), Xana, Catarina and Daniel.

It's 11am and the journey begins. Matt and I squished in the back: we find a slanted seating position that accommodates Matt's metre long legs and throw our belongings into the tiny boot. Catarina in the front and the rest of the gang in the middle. Vamonos!

We entered the Eduardo Avaroa Andean Fauna National Reserve. We saw Laguna Blanca and Verde, both very beautiful.

Having driven for a couple of hours through breathtaking mountainous landscapes and water reserves, we stopped for a refresher at the thermal baths, Polques Hot Springs. Here, there was the option to take a dip or walk the surrounding lands. We took the latter. The lake was frozen so we attempted to walk a bit of it until we saw some of the cracks and decided to leave that kind of bravery for something else.

Okay. So we're at an altitude of 4,900km. No jokes. And the best thing? I can't even feel it. It was so revitalising to be at such a high altitude, albeit for only 30 minutes, and to be able to breathe and still appreciate the beauty, nausea free. More tourist free than the geysers in San Pedro de Atacama, the geysers of Sol de Mañana were smaller and puddlier. It was, after all, the afternoon so we didn't witness the storming geyser nebulas that make for a great shot and experience. 

It was 6pm when we arrived at our accommodation. The sun was soon to set, we were surrounded by the desert and we could feel the cold chilling it's way through the walls. We were starving! Due to the delay in the morning with the border controls, we hadn't had lunch. And so lunch was presented to us at 6:20pm. Dinner at 8pm. It's impressive what can be cooked with a limited supply of water and gas. We each took turns layering our bodies for sleep, we're talking two/three of each item and a couple of the girls went to bed in their coats. Suffice to say: no showers. Each bed had four blankets and there was the option of renting a sleeping bag. The six of us lodged into one big room, the door secured safely with a bottle of water, 10pm and we're asleep. 

SaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSaveSave

Tours, tours, tours. Navigating San Pedro de Atacama

Given it hasn't rained in some parts of the Atacama desert in over 400 years, it was a tad surprising to step down from our 16 hour bus ride from La Serena only to plant a flip-flop straight into a puddle. The small, dusty bus station was damp from a night's downpour - fifty year's worth of rain in one night - while up in the mountains, where Chile meets Bolivia, a sudden burst of snowfall had closed the border. Yet, as we scrambled about at 7am collecting our bags, the harsh sun was already beating down from a clear, crisp blue sky, suggesting it wouldn't be long until things were back to normal.

Anything less than 250mm of rain a year is enough to illicit desert status. The Sahara averages 7mm a year, the Atacama just 1mm. This region is so dry because of its location, wedged up high between the tectonically active Andes mountains and the Pacific Ocean, where the cold Humboldt current drastically reduces the chance of rain clouds forming. This means there's almost no greenery or shade here, which in turn means no cities, so no pollution. Only cactuses and hardened grasses survive the moon-like landscape that is home to a variety of wind-sculpted canyons, extensive salt lakes, and towering geothermal geysers. A journey through them promised to expose a world like nothing we had ever seen.

Our overall plan in South America was to take a tour of the high roads from Chile, through Bolivia, before ending back at the sea in Peru. From this point at San Pedro we would be at high altitude for the next 3 weeks. We aimed to take a 3-day 4x4 tour through the desert to Uyuni, which meant climbing from 3,000m to 5,000m in the space of a day. We needed to acclimatise our bodies to the sudden lack of oxygen they would experience the best we could, so we decided to hang around for a few days and take some of the day tours that helped turn the sleepy mining village of San Pedro into a backpacker's haven. This would also give us time to choose an operator for our 4x4 experience.

Deciding which tours to take turned out to be a time-consuming business for two reasons. Firstly, there was limited information about which day tours were worth the money and which ones were devised to grab the tourist buck. Secondly, reviews of tour companies, of which there are about one hundred, for both day and 4x4 tours, varied wildly, if they existed at all. As such, we did quite a lot of wandering and researching in between coffees. Below is a summary of our findings.

Day tours 

Choosing a company: For day tours the companies all appeared to offer very similar experiences. All had mostly good reviews on places like TripAdvisor, although all also had a few disgruntled one stars. Prices were also similar. A few companies charge more for something a bit different such as a truck you can stand on to view sunset instead of the standard minibus, or a fully English speaking tour guide instead of one who will talk mainly in Spanish before pausing to fill you in on the basics via English. Ultimately the only real way to find out if they are any good is to take a cheaper tour (e.g. Valley da la Luna) and draw your own conclusions. The guide who takes the valley tour is often the same for the geysers, so if you like the experience stick with it, otherwise twist. Be prepared to find yourself shunted to another company's tour if the operator you choose doesn't sign up many people that day. It's annoying but makes economical sense.

Choosing a tour: We went on 4 tours while in San Pedro and overall our experiences were great. 

 

 

1. Valley da la Luna (valley of the moon) - this tour is the most popular one for sunset and is located just outside of town. If you want to go it alone you can hire a bike and make your own way there instead. The tour takes you through the spectacular landscape of the valley before moving to higher ground to watch the valley turn dark as the sun falls behind the horizon. 

Start/end: 3pm pick up, 7pm finish

Average booking cost: 10,000 Pesos

Extras: 5,000 Pesos valley entrance fee

Overall: Do it, sunset was one of the best we've ever seen.

 

2. El Tatio Geysers - these are 2 hours out of town and a visit will take you up to 4,200m in altitude. The Geysers are most active at the moment the rising sun casts its warmth over the cold ground, so be prepared for an early, 4am, start. On the way pack the tour stops off to see small local villages or canyons, which do start to become a little tiresome. Try one of the local empanadas, though.

Start/end: 4am pick up, 1-2pm finish

Average booking cost: 15,000-20,000 Pesos

Extras: 2,000 Pesos geyser entrance fee

Overall: Do it, it's not everyday you get to wander along while the Earth belches around you.

 

3. Salt Lagunas  - these lakes sit at the lowest points of the desert where any rain that does fall eventually ends up. As the water slowly evaporates away large salt crystals build up around the lake. If you go to Cejar for sunset, there is the chance to swim in one of the lakes although only for 15 or so minutes because otherwise the salt starts to irritate the skin. There are showers available if you do take a dip. If you're lucky you'll also see flamingos. Most tours will offer nibbles and a drink (cocktail, coffee etc.) as you watch sunset. Having seen the valley and geysers we were less impressed with salt lakes and didn't think there was really that much to see.

Start/end: 3pm pick up, 7pm finish

Average booking cost: 15,000 Pesos

Extras: 15,000 Peso Cejar entrance fee

Overall: Skip it, it's expensive and if doing a 4x4 tour to Uyuni you'll see plenty of salt lakes.

 

4. Astronomy - like in the Elqui valley, the night skies over the Atacama are some of the clearest in the world. Seen from here the Milky Way is an obvious, bright belt arching across the sky. It's pretty startling if, like us, you live in a city. The astronomy tours point out the constellations and use telescopes to give you a better view of the moon, Saturn, Jupiter and Mars. Most have Spanish speaking guides with an assistant who translates into English, others offer an English or even French speaking guide on certain days of the week. The tours don't run if there's a full moon owing to the light obscuring the view.

Start/end: 8pm pick up, 10.30pm finish

Average cost: 15,000-20,000 Pesos

Overall: Do it, if you're a novice you'll learn a lot.

3 day, 4x4 tour to Uyuni

Choosing a company: the blogs on these tours are quite extensive, and while most people had wonderful experiences, a few had some real gripes - lazy, drunk or aggressive drivers, poorly maintained vehicles, food poisoning, cold nights, or altitude sickness. Saying this, quite a few of the negative reviews seemed to come from the highly pampered. One we remember complained of 'Not enough vegetables and luke warm showers', heaven forbid! It became clear quickly that the success of the trip rested on two things: getting a good driver who will look after you and a good 4x4 vehicle. This means there is a lot of luck involved. The most highly reviewed company is Cordellier who are (strangely) the only recommended company in the Lonely Plant and Rough Guide, it also means they're by far the most expensive at $180. Some work on the assumption that a higher charge means better results, but we were very unimpressed when we spoke to them. The lady spent less than a minute going through the route and told us here were only two slots available so we best sign up right now. In the end we went with Atacama Mistica ($100) because on the two occasions we approached them, different people give an in-depth explanation of the route and answered our questions. The owner also gave us his personal number for emergencies and didn't attempt to flog us expensive sleeping bags for the first night, allowing us to hire one at the accommodation if we wished. This is no guarantee for a good tour but it was a good start. In the end we had a wonderful time.

The route: We'll give a better review of the tour in another blog, but as a summary the first two days take you through the Atacama desert viewing Lagunas, a volcano, a smaller salt flat and different rock formations. The highest point is 5,000m at the Bolivian geysers (different and Es spectacular to those in Chile), although you soon descend. The third day is spent at the Uyuni salt flats, with a drop off in Uyuni (via the train graveyard) at about 3pm. The first night at 4,100m is cold and if you're not used to the altitude could mean an uncomfortable night sleep. The second night is lower at 3,500m and in a warmer salt hotel. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are all provided. It can get warm in the car but still be cold outside, so be prepared to layer up and down constantly.

Things to note:

- Sleeping bags. Most places will say you need one but ask if your beds come with sheets. Ours did and we were more than warm enough with them and a few clothes on. 

- Altitude sickness. The tour rises quickly so make sure you drink lots of water and don't eat a heavy meal the day before. Ask the company if they carry emergency oxygen.

- Drivers. Your driver will likely speak Spanish and no English, so look up what you will be visiting before departing. It's likely someone on the tour will translate for you if you don't speak Spanish.

- Take extra Bolivianos. There is a 150B park entrance fee close to the border and a 30B fee at the salt flats. You'll also need change for the toilets and hot springs. Just across the border the toilet attendants still accept Chilean Pesos.

- Bring snacks. The food was good but we still craved the odd cookie.

A tour through Elqui Valley

"For eight years we had no rain," our guide, Jorge, says while navigating the minibus into the car park of the Elqui Valley dam. "The water was at its lowest point. Just five percent. Then last year we had seven rainy days. Seven! Now it's three quarters full again."

A week's worth of rain is an outlier for a place like the Elqui Valley. If it wasn't for certain regions of the Atacama desert it could call itself the driest place on Earth, if you exclude the Poles, that is. 

"They relocated an entire village when they built this dam," Jorge continues, pointing across the reservoir at a small settlement perched on the side of the mountain.

I lean forward in my seat to ask him an obvious question, "Were they happy about that?"

"Oh, no. They protested. But you have to balance the loss of a few with the benefit to many," he responds before switching to Spanish for the benefit of the two other tourists in the bus, both Chilean.

Standing on the dam looking back into the valley, the benefit to many is there for all to see: a diverse and thriving farming community. For over an hour we had wound our way up Ruta 41 into the valley while Jorge pointed out all the different types of crops. The list is impressive for a place where Christmas is more common than rainfall: green beans, potatoes, tomatoes, lettuce, cabbage, artichoke, avocado, papaya, mango, lemons, mandarins and two different types of grapes.

"Tailor grapes, they're grown for wine. Pisco grapes, they're sweater and grown for, well, Pisco."

The valley is flanked either side by eucalyptus trees. "Anyone know what they're for?" Jorge asks.

I wonder if they're hatching a plan to attract koalas but I'm wrong. "The branches are used to support the grapes, it's the best option when you're some of the most northern and driest vineyards in Chile."

Jorge likes to drop an interest fact about the region, one of his best came right at the start of the day as we clambered into the back of the bus. "The Elqui Valley is famous for three things: the sun, the Pisco, the stars. We practically guarantee them." When Sofia asks him if it'll be clear enough to visit one of the many astronomy observatories hidden in the mountains this evening, he leans over the steering wheel to look at the sky. "No. It'll be too cloudy," he says without a hint of irony. 

By lunchtime we have visited the valley, the dam, and the childhood home of Gabriela Mistrial the first Chilean to win a Nobel Prize. "Actually the first South American. We have two Nobel prizes now, more than any other country on the continent," Jorge gushes.

Before lunch we drive to the village of Pisco Elqui, 3,000 meters up, for one more stop, the Pisco distillery. On the way Jorge stops to pick up two German backpackers also on their way to try Pisco. He doesn't want money for the trouble, he's just concerned that they have to walk so far in the baking sun. We learn that Pisco grapes are crushed and fermented like wine, but then distilled to get the alcohol. 

"There is a lot of waste," Jorge explains. "Most is just water or bad wine. Wasted. Then the first alcohol to distill in poisonous. Wasted. Then between 75% and 40% alcohol collected to make Pisco. Below that, wasted."

Wasted, pretty much what we were after trying the three different types of Pisco on an empty stomach. 

Over lunch Jorge tells us more about himself. He used to be a primary school teacher until he realised it was all work for very little in return, so he switched to tourism. First he headed north to San Pedro de Atacama (our next stop) where he explained the stars and solar system to eager backpackers over a hot coffee in the dark, freezing desert. Three years later he drifted southwards to the Valley. 

"This place has a special energy," he says. "Some say it is this energy that gives Elqui it's clear skies. It's why you find a lot of Mystics around here. Those advertising their healing powers. It's an emotional place."

I wonder whether that energy is really just a combination of Pisco and the altitude but before I can air my view the conversation moves on to goats cheese. Given how animated one of the Chilean ladies becomes about this topic, I start to believe Jorge after all.